To solve for this, carry a selection of two different length quickdraws and use a longer quickdraw that allows the bottom carabiner to hang completely over the edge.Īlso consider how the gate of the carabiner will contact the rock during a fall. If you take a fall, the carabiner will pry against the edge and the carabiner could possibly break. You want to avoid clipping a quickdraw so that the bottom carabiner hangs partway over an edge. If you take a fall with the rope traveling over the gate, it is possible for the rope to open the gate and unclip.Īfter clipping, observe how the rope-end carabiner on the quickdraw contacts the rock. This allows the rope to travel over the spine of the carabiner rather than the gate. The gate of the carabiner on the rope-end of the quickdraw must always face away from the direction of travel. It’s important to pay attention to the direction that the climbing route travels and to keep this in mind when you’re clipping your quickdraws to bolts. This keeps the carabiner properly oriented for easier clipping and maximum strength. The bent-gate carabiner also often includes a rubber sleeve that stiffens the connection between the sling and the carabiner. Be sure to follow this at all times to keep the rope-end carabiner free of sharp edges that can develop when you clip a carabiner to a bolt hanger. The straight-gate carabiner is used for clipping the bolt, while the bent-gate carabiner is shaped to make clipping the rope easier. Pre-made quickdraws are typically sold with one straight-gate carabiner and one bent-gate carabiner. If you have to climb above the bolt or make a very long reach to clip it, there will be more slack and therefore potential for a longer fall.

Ideally, the bolt that you’re going to clip is somewhere between your head and waist in order to introduce the least amount of slack into the system. As you do this there are several things to consider:īefore clipping a bolt, strive to find a stable stance and a secure hold for your non-clipping hand. Clipping a quickdraw to a piece of protection is simple: Open the carabiner gate with your thumb and forefinger (or simply press the gate against the bolt) and clip it to the bolt hanger.

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